The Aequator Collection

Guide

Full set: what box and papers mean

Luxury watch listings often say 'full set', 'B&P' or 'watch only'. That statement says something about the provenance and completeness of a watch, and it counts in its assessment. This guide explains what a full set includes, what papers do and do not prove, and how to judge a set.

What is a full set?

A full set is a watch with everything it came with at the original sale. First of all that is the box, often with an inner and an outer box, and the papers: the brand's guarantee card or certificate, completed or registered at the sale. Then come the booklets, any tags and labels, and for a bracelet the spare links removed when it was shortened. The original purchase invoice is not a fixed part of the set, but makes the provenance stronger still.

The abbreviation 'B&P' stands for box and papers. 'Watch only' means that only the watch is sold. Between the two lies everything else: a watch with papers but no box, or with a box that is not the original one. A good seller states exactly what is present.

What papers prove, and what they do not

Papers link a serial number to a sale: a date and usually a point of sale. They thereby make a watch's provenance demonstrable, and for a recent watch they show whether any manufacturer's warranty is still running. But papers can be forged, or belong to another watch. They therefore only prove something when the serial number and reference on the card match those on the watch, and when the watch itself is right. A genuine watch without papers is still genuine; a counterfeit with a genuine card remains a counterfeit.

Many sellers make their name on the guarantee card or invoice illegible. That is common and understandable. The date, point of sale and serial number must remain legible.

By brand

With Rolex and Tudor the paper is a guarantee card registered at the sale; older watches have a paper guarantee certificate. Audemars Piguet supplies a certificate and a guarantee card. Omega, IWC and Audemars Piguet can issue an extract from their archives on request for older watches, including the production date. With Breitling, the COSC chronometer certificate belongs with the papers. With Panerai the set often includes more than a box and card: extra straps, a buckle and sometimes a tool for changing the strap. More about what we check for each brand is on the brand pages, such as those for Rolex and Panerai.

Service records and invoices

A service record from the brand or an approved watchmaker is not part of the original set, but it is a valuable document: it shows when the movement was last overhauled and what was replaced. Keep such documents with the watch. Note that a brand service sometimes replaces parts such as hands or a dial; for a collector of older watches that can make a difference, and it too should be stated.

What an incomplete set means

A watch without a box or papers is not suspect, but the buyer must then rely more on the watch itself and on the seller. That counts in the assessment, and the difference is greater the more recent and sought-after the watch is. When selling, it therefore pays to gather everything that belongs to the watch; see also our guide to selling.

For every watch in our collection we state what is present. If the set is complete, it says 'Full set'; otherwise we list what comes with it, so you know in advance where you stand. More about our inspection can be found in how we work.

Frequently asked questions

Is a watch without papers suspect?

Not in itself. Papers get lost, and a genuine watch remains genuine. It does mean that the assessment rests more on the watch itself; a reliable seller states clearly what is missing.

Does a guarantee card prove that a watch is genuine?

No. A card links a serial number to a sale, but it can be forged or belong to another watch. It only proves something if it matches the watch and the watch itself is right.

What is an extract from the archives?

A document a brand draws up on request from its own archives, including a watch's production date. Omega, IWC and Audemars Piguet offer it; for an older watch without papers it is a useful document.

May the name on the guarantee card be made illegible?

Yes, that is common for privacy reasons. The date, point of sale and serial number must remain legible.

How do you state the set for your watches?

If the set is complete, it says 'Full set'. Otherwise we state exactly what comes with the watch, such as only the papers or only the box.