The Aequator Collection
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Breitling

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About Breitling

Chronographs for aviation

Léon Breitling opened his workshop in Saint-Imier, in the Swiss Jura, in 1884 and concentrated on chronographs and timers. The company later moved to Grenchen. The Chronomat, a chronograph with a slide rule in the bezel, arrived in 1942, and in 1952 Willy Breitling, the founder's grandson, launched the Navitimer: a chronograph with a circular slide rule that allowed pilots to calculate speed, fuel consumption and distance. The Superocean for divers followed in 1957. After the quartz crisis Ernest Schneider took over the brand in 1979 and introduced a new Chronomat in 1984. Around the turn of the century Breitling decided to have its movements certified as chronometers by COSC, and in 2009 its own chronograph calibre, the B01, followed.

What we check on a Breitling

On a Breitling, the reference, serial number, calibre and chronometer certificate belong together; the reference codes the case material and the movement, among other things. We assess the dial and its sub-dials, the hands and the bezel, and on a Navitimer the operation of the slide rule, on a Superocean the direction and click of the diving bezel. Then come the case and the engravings on the back, the bracelet or strap with its clasp, and the movement: winding, setting and, on a chronograph, start, stop and reset. On older models we check that the movement fits the version, because Breitling has used different base calibres in the same case. Whatever we find is stated in the description.

Models we offer and look for

The Navitimer is the model we are asked about most often, as a chronograph with calibre B01 and in the simpler automatic versions. We also look for the Chronomat, which since 2020 has again come on the characteristic bracelet with rouleaux links, the Superocean and Superocean Heritage, and the Premier. Older Navitimer and Chronomat models from the 1980s and 1990s also qualify, provided their condition and originality are good. A Breitling is not always online; if you are looking for a particular version, you can give us a sourcing request.

Buying, selling and trading in

You buy a Breitling from us through a request without obligation. We confirm availability personally; you pay by bank transfer once you agree and receive the watch insured, or collect it by appointment. You can sell outright, on consignment or as a trade-in. Please state in your request whether the chronometer certificate and guarantee card are present, and whether the watch has recently been serviced; with a chronograph that says a great deal about the condition of the movement. Every request is assessed by hand, and a proposal only follows afterwards. The Aequator Collection is an independent dealer and not an authorised Breitling retailer.

Questions about Breitling

What is the slide rule on a Navitimer for?

The rotating bezel and the fixed scale on the dial together form a circular slide rule. Pilots used it to work out speed, distance, fuel consumption and rate of climb; it also allows multiplication, division and unit conversion.

Is every Breitling a chronometer?

Around the turn of the century Breitling decided to have its movements certified as chronometers by COSC. Whether a specific watch has a certificate is shown by its papers; we state it for the watch.

What is calibre B01?

Breitling's own automatic chronograph movement, introduced in 2009, with a column wheel, a vertical clutch and a power reserve of about 70 hours. It is used in the Navitimer B01 and the Chronomat B01, among others.

Do you also sell Breitling watches with a quartz movement?

Yes, if they suit our collection. Breitling makes thermocompensated quartz movements, called SuperQuartz, which are also certified as chronometers. The type of movement is listed in the specifications of every watch.

Can I sell or trade in my Breitling with you?

Yes, through an outright sale, consignment or a trade-in. We assess every request by hand; a proposal only follows afterwards and is never guaranteed in advance.

Will you search for a specific Breitling for me?

Yes. Use watch sourcing to tell us which model, condition and set you are looking for. We will contact you as soon as we find a suitable example; whether and when that happens cannot be guaranteed in advance.