About Cartier
How did Cartier the jeweller turn to watches?
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, as a jeweller. Under his grandsons Louis, Pierre and Jacques the house became an international name, with branches in Paris, London and New York. For watchmaking, Louis Cartier is the key figure.
In 1904 he designed a wristwatch for the Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont that could be read while flying: the Santos. The Tank followed in 1917, a rectangular case whose sides run on into the lugs.
Those two shapes still define the brand today, joined by the Panthère of 1983 and the round Ballon Bleu of 2007, among others. Cartier belongs to the Richemont group and has its watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
What do we check on a Cartier?
On a Cartier the inspection starts with the dial. The Roman numerals, the minute track and the blued steel hands must be crisp and regular, and on many models the Cartier name is worked into one of the numerals as a secret signature.
On most models the crown carries a cabochon; we check that it is present, undamaged and correct for the watch.
We then compare the reference and serial number on the caseback with the guarantee card, and examine the case: the polished bezel of a Santos and the slender sides of a Tank tolerate little polishing.
On the current Santos we test the QuickSwitch system, which lets you change from bracelet to strap without tools, and the SmartLink system, which lets you adjust the bracelet length without tools.
Cartier makes many models with either a quartz or a mechanical movement; each has its own reference, and the movement must match that reference. Whatever we find is stated in the description.
Which Cartier models do we offer and look for?
Most enquiries concern the steel Santos de Cartier, in the large WSSA0018 and the medium WSSA0029. Those after the classic rectangle often start with the Tank Must WSTA0041.
Among the round models it is the 42 mm Ballon Bleu W69012Z4, and for a smaller wrist the Panthère WSPN0007. We also look for the Santos-Dumont, the Tank Louis Cartier and the Tank Française, in gold as well as steel. If your model is not listed, we can search for it.
How do you buy, sell or trade in a Cartier with us?
You buy a Cartier from us through a request without obligation; we confirm availability personally, and payment by bank transfer only follows once you agree. Delivery is insured or by appointment.
You can sell outright, on consignment or as a trade-in against another watch from our collection.
With your request, please state the reference, whether the watch is quartz or automatic, and which straps, links and documents you have. We assess every request by hand, and a proposal only follows after that assessment. The Aequator Collection is an independent dealer and not an authorised Cartier retailer.